15 Best Ways to Kill Weeds Permanently.

As a gardener I know how annoying weeds can be. No matter how beautiful your yard or garden looks, weeds will always find a way and take over the space.

While it is not possible to get rid of weeds forever, there are ways to kill them and stop new ones from growing.

In this article, I’ll share 15 different methods I’ve tried to Kill Weeds both above and below ground.

We’re talking about hand-pulling, chemicals and more. If you try one or more of these safe and efficient weed killer methods, your garden can stay beautiful and weed-free throughout the growing season. Let’s read it then!

1.Plow the soil lightly to discourage weed growth.

Weeds are a big problem for us gardeners. No matter how much I pull or spray them, they keep coming back. But I stopped weed growth by lightly digging the topsoil in early spring.

Lightly digging the soil in early spring removes weeds that have already started to grow.

Digging the soil pushes weed seeds up into the soil where they cannot germinate well.

A light tillage in early spring made my good plants grow faster and cover the bare ground more quickly.

In early spring I lightly dig the soil in my garden to get rid of small weeds that have just started to grow. Later, I find it easier to remove baby weeds than larger, mature weeds.

Soil tillage instructions.

First, use a garden tool like a hoe to loosen the top layer of soil by 2-6 inches.

Move the tool back and forth several times to mix and turn the soil. Keep the soil slightly moist to make it easier to work with.

Then, break up large areas of the soil into small pieces. Before planting, level the soil area by removing all weeds, roots and any other weeds from the newly dug soil.

Loose, flat soil is good for direct seeding or planting small plants.

You can optionally use a pre-emergent herbicide spray or granular to control weeds, but don’t dig too deep as this can harm beneficial soil organisms and structures.

If you want to learn more about tillage, check out the article “Weed Management in Organic Gardens” by the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources.

2. Pre-emergence weed killer .

Pre-emergence herbicides stop weed seeds from germinating and disrupt their initial growth.

When you use these chemicals correctly, they spread evenly over the top layer of the soil.

This creates an area where weed seeds cannot germinate and grow properly.

Use of pre-emergent herbicides.

To use pre-weed killer well, read the label first so you know when and how much your yard needs.

But I recommend spraying in the spring when the soil is 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Water lightly after spraying to drive the chemical into the soil, stopping weeds where the seeds try to germinate.

Reapply every 2-3 months before new weeds appear. Leave space around existing plants to avoid damage.

And always wear protective wear such as gloves,masks, goggles and wash hands after use.

3.Vinegar application for weed control.

Vinegar can kill weeds because it contains a chemical called acetic acid.

When you spray vinegar on weed leaves, the acetic acid damages the outer layer of the leaves.

This allows the vinegar to penetrate the weed cells. As a result, the leaves and stem of the weed dry up and die.

Regular household vinegar (5% strength) or special vinegars made for killing weeds can kill small, young weeds that are just starting to grow.

For large established weeds or tough broadleaf weeds, use very strong horticultural vinegar (10-20% strength).

Vinegar only kills the above-ground weed. It does not permanently remove the entire weed including the roots.

So you need to spray vinegar repeatedly to control the weeds completely.

Be careful not to spray vinegar on the plants you want to keep because if the vinegar gets on them, it will damage them.

Vinegar Instructions for Weed Control.

Make a spray by mixing 1-2 cups of water with 1 cup of vinegar.

For stubborn weeds, spray this vinegar solution on weed leaves on a hot, sunny day, using a strong 10-20% horticultural vinegar instead of regular vinegar.

Because heat helps to damage and kill weed leaves. Reapply this spray every 1-2 weeks to kill emerging or new weeds.

Remove weeds by hand in addition to spraying with vinegar.

Removing the entire weed, including the roots, prevents it from growing back.

4. Use rubbing alcohol.

Rubbing alcohol, such as isopropyl alcohol, can be used to kill weeds. It works in two main ways:

• It damages the protective covering of leaves and stems of weeds. This coating helps retain water inside the plant. When damaged, the inner parts of the plant are exposed.
• It goes inside plant cells and breaks down their membranes. As a result, water and fluid are released from the cells.

When a plant can no longer hold water, it withers and dies. Alcohol also destroys important proteins and processes inside cells.

Instructions for using rubbing alcohol to kill weeds.

Rubbing alcohol is easy to use on weeds. First, purchase a 70% isopropyl alcohol solution.

This alcohol works well to kill weeds. Apply the rubbing alcohol directly onto the weed leaves and stems.

Do this on very hot and sunny days when weeds are actively growing.

Spray all leaves and stems, especially the base near the ground, using a small spray bottle.

5. Weeding by hand.

As we mentioned before, apart from spraying vinegar, you can pull weeds by hand, which is the easiest way to remove weeds without using chemicals.

Chemicals can harm insects, soil and other plants. For gardeners who want to use a natural method, hand pulling weeds is an excellent choice.

Although it takes time and patience, pulling weeds by hand is a very simple way to control weeds.

How to pull weeds by hand.

The goal is to uproot the entire weed, including the roots, so it cannot regrow.

Pull the weed slowly straight up to loosen the roots from the soil. Small weeds with shallow roots will come out easily this way.

Older weeds often have long tangled roots so first loosen the surrounding soil with both hands then pull firmly to completely uproot.

Weeding is easier if the soil is moist, especially after rain. Hand pulling works well for small gardens that you monitor weekly.

6. Borax solution.

Borax (Sodium Borate) is a naturally occurring mineral sometimes used as a non-selective herbicide.

The borax solution penetrates the plant, attacks the cells and inhibits internal food and energy production.

Along with this internal destruction, borax inhibits the uptake of vital water and nutrients.

As a result, without food, energy, water and nutrients, weed plants die after a few days or weeks.

Instructions for using Borax solution.

To use borax to kill weeds, you first need to make a borax weed killer solution.

Mix 1/2 cup borax powder with 1 gallon of water. Hot water helps dissolve the borax powder and mix it well.

Allow the solution to cool after mixing well Before spraying the borax solution, first wet the weeds you want to kill with water.

Because it improves the absorption of borax better. Then spray the borax solution directly on the weed leaves and stems.

Depending on the type and size of the weed, it may take 1-2 weeks for the weed to die completely after spraying borax.

Larger weeds may require more than one application. You should be careful not to over spray desired plants. Borax solution is most effective when applied on a dry, hot weather day.

7. Spread salt around your weeds.

Spreading salt around weeds damages them in two main ways.

• First, salt draws water out of plant roots, making it difficult for plants to absorb enough water. Salt does this by increasing the concentration of dissolved particles (solutes) in the soil outside the roots. It draws water from areas of low solute concentration (inside the roots) to areas with higher solute concentration (saline soil).

• Second, salt gives weeds too much sodium and chloride, which creates toxic levels. Excess sodium and chloride prevent plants from receiving essential nutrients. They also disrupt specific proteins called enzymes that are essential for plant growth.

Without adequate water and nutrients, when its enzymes are inhibited, the plant struggles to survive and often withers and dies.

Instructions for using salt.

To kill weeds, use regular table salt, rock salt, or salt with calcium chloride.

Do not use iodized salt because the iodine and anti-caking chemicals added to iodized salt prevent the salt from drying out completely and killing the weeds.

Note the small, young weeds. Salt is less effective on large, mature weeds that may re-grow.

For better results, cut the weed stems first. Then sprinkle dry salt or spray salt water directly on the weeds.

For spraying, mix 1 cup of salt with 1 gallon of water. Or spread 1-2 pounds of granular salt over every 100 square feet of weeds.

Be careful around choice plants, as salt damages the roots and seeps into the soil.

Do not use salt near water or where it may enter groundwater. Also using excess salt can damage soil health, so apply salt carefully.

8. Pre-emergent herbicides: Corn glutinous meal.

Corn glutinous meal (CGM) is a protein-rich powder made from corn that contains dipeptides—amino acids that resemble plant hormones.

When weed seeds are spread on the soil before they germinate, CGM prevents young weeds from growing well. It interferes with important processes inside the cells of seedlings, especially in proper root growth.

With poor roots, tiny new weeds can’t grip the soil and get nutrients easily.

CGM works mainly on weeds that have not yet emerged through the soil.

It does not control existing weeds, or completely stop the growth of affected plants.

For those who want a natural approach to dealing with emerging weeds, CGM can help when applied based on specific circumstances.

Instructions for use of corn gluten meal.

Spread 20 pounds of corn gluten meal per 1,000 square feet by hand in early spring before the soil warms above 55°F.

Make sure it covers the soil evenly. Water lightly after spreading to help the corn sticky meal mix into the soil.

Reapply it every 8 to 10 weeks while the plants are growing to stop young weeds before they mature.

It will not affect plants that have already started growing.

9. Spread mulch around your plants.

Mulch blocks light from reaching the soil. Mulch reduces the amount of light reaching the soil by creating a layer between the sun and the soil (wood chips, straw, leaves, etc.).

Since the weed seeds are now under the mulch, they cannot germinate and grow.

Additionally, if any new small weed seedlings may germinate they will not receive enough light to survive after coming up against the mulch barrier.

These weed plants require sunlight for photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis is the process that plants use to convert sunlight into food and energy.

Without light, baby weeds can’t photosynthesize and make the compounds they need to establish themselves and grow.

Allelopathic compounds released by organic mulches may inhibit the growth of some, but not all, weed species released by decomposing mulches.

Regular use of mulch gives your plants a big boost, as well as keeping noxious weeds under control!

Instructions for use mulch effectively.

Place 2-4 inches of mulch material anywhere you want to keep weeds free. Make sure you spread it evenly so that the entire area is sufficiently covered.

Use things like wood chips, straw, leaves or pine needles as your mulch layer. A mulch of these natural materials works well.

Add more mulch each year as the old mulch breaks down. It keeps the protective layer intact.

Pull out any weeds first before adding new mulch so they don’t grow through it.

Place cardboard or newspaper before the first mulch layer for flower and plant beds that return year after year. It provides better weed control.

When placing mulch around plants that are already growing, be careful not to pile the mulch on the main stem or trunk.

Mulch placed too high against actual plants can lead to rot, disease and other problems.

Maintain a buffer zone of several inches between the mulch and the stem or base of the stem.

Refresh the protective mulch layer during moderate temperatures in spring and fall. Mulch can dry out very quickly in the summer heat.

This can prevent mulch from rotting to nourish cold winter soil.

Adding new mulch in the spring and fall maintains the proper balance so that the mulch layer performs optimally throughout the year.

10. Pour hot water over the weed.

When you pour hot boiling water on weeds, it essentially burns them. Extreme heat damages the interior of weeds in these two ways:

• It burns the cells inside the weed.
• It destroys important proteins that weeds need to survive.

This rapid breakdown of the weed’s internal cell structure leads to weed death.

Boiling water works best on young, small weeds that are just sprouting.

Hot water only kills the upper parts of the weed it directly touches.

So while it kills the above-ground parts, it cannot kill the roots or dormant weed seeds below the soil.

Instructions for using boiling water.

Boil water in a pot on the stove until it starts to bubble and is very hot.

Carefully lift the pot by the handle and pour the boiling water directly over the individual weeds . Make sure all leaves and stems are wet.

Use this method only on single weeds, not large areas, and do it on a sunny, dry day for best results.

Re-pour boiling water over the same weed every 1-2 weeks if it starts growing again or new weeds appear.

If any weed roots survive the boiling water, pull them out by hand.

Be careful not to get boiling water around the plants you want to keep, as this can easily damage them.

11. solarization.

Solarization is a chemical-free method of controlling weeds and weed seeds by harnessing the sun’s energy.

By covering moist soil with a clear plastic tarp during the hottest weeks of summer, solarization traps heat, increasing soil temperatures to about 35–60°C (95–140°F).

This heat effectively kills many annual weeds and weed seeds present in the top 2-6 inches of soil.

Instructions for solarization.

Getting started with solarization is pretty straightforward.

Basically, you start by soaking the area thoroughly with water.

Then you place a clear plastic, UV-stable sheet and pull the edges of the small trenches dug around the perimeter.

This will help trap the sun’s heat under the plastic.

During the next 4–6 weeks of sunny summer weather, the soil below becomes super hot, 35–60°C (95–140°F)!

It’s hot enough to kill weed seeds and small weed seedlings trying to grow in the top 6 inches of soil.

Plastic sheets need to be left in place for the entire summer season to allow solarization to do its job.

Now, when the plastic is removed at the end of summer, you’ll have a weed-free area ready to plant whatever your heart desires!

Solarized soil should clear any competition from troublesome weeds so your plants can thrive.

Solarization uses sunlight in a natural way to clear weeds without using harsh chemical herbicides.

12.Spray glyphosate on weeds.

Glyphosate (also known as Roundup) is a powerful weed killer.

It kills all types of weeds by blocking a key process within the plant called the shikimate pathway.

This pathway produces important proteins called amino acids that plants need to survive.

When you spray glyphosate on the leaves, it is absorbed and spread throughout the plant, blocking this complex pathway.

As a result, without amino acids the plant turns yellow and dies.

Instructions for use of glyphosate.

To use glyphosate correctly, I recommend following product label directions carefully.

The label provides key details on when to spray, how much formula to use, and how to apply it for maximum effectiveness.

Be sure to mix glyphosate with a spreader product so that it sticks to the leaves and penetrates the leaves.

Avoid spraying on windy days to avoid accidentally spreading glyphosate on other plants you want to keep.

Important Caution: Because glyphosate non-selectively kills both weeds and desirable plants, you need to be careful.

Some very hardy weeds may require multiple applications of glyphosate.

After you spray, wait at least 2 weeks before plowing or digging the area.

Please – take proper safety precautions when handling glyphosate such as wearing gloves, long sleeves, pants and goggles. Glyphosate is a powerful chemical, so handle it responsibly.

13. Flame weed: The easy way to burn weed.

Flame weeders are tools that use fire to kill weeds. They burn the weed with a propane or butane fuel flame.

When the hot flame touches the weed, it makes the plant cells very hot.

This causes the cells to swell and burst. It destroys plant cells and withers and kills plants.

First time I used a flame weed to burn some crab grass, and I loved it! Unlike pulling weeds by hand which is painful, flame does all the work.

Instructions for using flame weed.

When I use my weed burner, safety comes first. I wear protective clothing like gloves, goggles, and a fire-resistant jacket to be safe.

Use it outdoors only, away from anything that could catch fire. Always keep a hose nearby for extra protection.

Carefully move the flame over the weeds to burn them completely.

And the trees you want to keep don’t accidentally burn, so it’s important to watch your movements.

It may take a few times to completely burn the weeds, but it’s better than pulling them by hand!

After finishing, I make sure to turn off the gas. Using it safely keeps my neighbors happy and prevents fires.

Taking safety precautions allows me to safely get rid of weeds with my weed burner.

14.For a weed-free garden, plant ground covers.

Weeds grow easily in gardens and bare soil. I know from experience how frustrating it is to painstakingly pull weeds, ground cover plants are low growing plants that cover the ground and spread.

I love how they create a living mulch that inhibits weed growth.

If you choose the right ground cover plants for your yard and care for them properly, they can prevent weeds and make your yard look great.

Some of my favorite ground cover plants are:

• Creeping Thyme – This fragrant herb spreads quickly between the pavers in my garden to form a dense, weed-blocking mat. It’s only 2-4 inches tall, so it doesn’t obstruct any view.

• Bugleweed – I planted this near my mailbox where it gets partial shade. It is easy for mail carriers to walk and it is spread out nicely to choke out weeds.

• Stonecrop – The succulent leaves of this plant add a pop of color to my sunny rock garden. It spreads easily between rocks and stones.

• Periwinkle – I planted this near my back fence under a shade tree. Creepers trailing delicate blue flowers now cover the ground and prevent anything else from growing. There are also many other ground cover plants that you can plant in your garden.

• Pachysandra – 6-12 inches tall, spreading to the ground. Prefers partial shade.

• Irish Moss – Mossy plant, grows 1-2 inches tall, tolerates walking. Prefers sun to partial shade.

• Liriope – Grass-like leaves, 6-12 inches long, slowly spreading. Tolerates sun and shade.

• Winter creeper – Evergreen creeper, 4-6 inches tall, spreads quickly. Tolerates sun and shade.

• Creeping Jenny – Trailing succulent, 2-4 inches tall, vigorous spreader. likes the sun

• Sweet Woodruff – Fragrant white flowers, 6-12 inches tall, moderately spreading. Likes shade

Ground Cover Planting Instructions.

To plant a ground cover, first clear the area of weeds, debris, and grass. Add compost if the soil is hard or weak.

Leave room for plants to spread. Plant many smaller plants instead of a few large ones to fill the space quickly.

Place 2-3 inches of mulch around new plants to prevent weeds.

In the first year, the plant grows roots but does not spread much.

It takes 1-2 years for them to really spread and cover the ground.

If you plant and care for them properly, you’ll soon have a beautiful, weed-resistant living mulch.

15.Sprinkle baking soda on the weeds.

Baking soda is a safe, effective option for organic weed control.

It kills weeds by disrupting their normal physiological processes and dehydrating plant tissue.

When you apply baking soda to weeds, it interferes with their photosynthesis, removes their protective wax coating, and pulls moisture from the leaves and stems.

This causes the weed to dry up and die within days or weeks.

Instructions for using baking soda.

To use baking soda to kill weeds, first make a mixture. Mix together 1 cup of baking soda, 1/4 cup of dish soap and 1 gallon of white vinegar.

The soap helps the mixture stick to the weed leaves and stems. Put this mixture in a spray bottle.

Then spray directly on the weeds you want to kill. You can sprinkle dry baking soda powder directly on and around the weeds.

The best time to spray weeds with this baking soda weed killer is on a warm, sunny day when temperatures are between 65-90°F.

Avoid windy days, as the mixture may blow onto the plants you want to keep.

And don’t spray before it rains, because the rain will wash the treatment off the weeds.

Conclusion:

Pulling weeds by hand works, but it takes a lot of time. Some natural ways to kill weeds are using mulch, ground cover, or pouring boiling water.

Chemical weed killers like glyphosate also work, but they can also harm other plants. The best way is to use different methods at the same time.

For example, put mulch on top of the soil and pull any weeds you can still see, or spray a chemical weed killer. Cover bare ground with ground cover plants to prevent new weeds from growing there.

It is important to get rid of weeds before they grow in early spring. Using multiple methods throughout the year works better than using just one method.

This will help get rid of all the weeds and stop them from coming back.

FAQ about killing weeds permanently.

Main Photo Credit: Kranich17 / pixabay